Improvement in sewing-machines



2 Sheets-Sheet .1. G. L. DULANEY. '7

Sewing Machine. '7 No. 56,020. Patented Jm s; 1866.

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- 2' Shetw-Sheet 2. G. L. DULANEY.

Sewing Machine.

No. 56,020. Patented July 3, 1866.

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UNITED STATES PATENT ()Frrcia.

GEORGE L. DULANEY, OF MEGHANIOSBURG, PENNSYLVANIA.

IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING-MACHINES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 56,020, dated July 3, 1866.

To all whom it may concern.- Be it known that I, GEORGE L. DULANEY, of Mechanicsburg, in the county of Cumberland and Stateof Pennsylvania,have invented and made certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full and exact description of the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon.

Figure 1 is a vertical side view of the machine, with portions of the feedin g-wheels taken out, so as to show the position of the mechanism holding an under spool-case. Fig. 2 is an end view, showing some of the mechanism of the machine. Fig. 3 shows the looping and the spool-case mechanism detached from the machine. Fig. 4 is the tension-wheel device detached from the machine. Fig. 5 is an edge view of the tension-wheel. Fig. 6 is a view of the clutch device for feeding off the thread from the tension-wheel. Fig. 7 is a sectional view of the spool-case, with the spool shown therein. Fig.8 shows the spool-case detached. Fig. 9 is an end view of the spool-case. Fig. 10 is a view of the wire fillet to confine the spool in the case. Fig. 11 shows the circuit or orbit in which the looping device moves.

Fig. 12 shows an enlarged view of my peculiar formed needle. Figs. 13, 14, and 15 show the three kinds of stitches made by my improve ments. Fig. 16 represents the new spoolholding device detached. Supplemental Figs. 17, 1S, and 19 show how the new stitch is formed.

The nature of my improvements consists, mainly, in the peculiar construction and application of a loop-forming hook made of one single piece of metal, said looping-hook receiving a positive motion or action direct from the end of a rotating axle, and so arranged in connec tion therewith as to entirely dispense with all springs, clips, connecting rods, secondary cranks, vibrating arms, and all such auxiliary devices as have heretofore been found necessary to give the looping hook the required motion or movement around and about the under spool, shuttle, bobbin, or thread-holder of a sewing-machine.

Secondly, my improvements consist in the peculiar construction and manner of hanging or attaching a feeding-wheel of a sewing-machine on or to a stationary sleeve, through and within which sleeve passes, revolves, and works the driving-axle, while the hub of the feedingwheel revolves over and around the stationary sleeve, thus one device answering both as a journal-box for an axle and as the axle or spindle for a Wheel, by all of which construction and arrangement two separate independeut rotary motions are obtained around and about one common center, and whereby the several parts of m y sewinganachine are brought in close and harmonious position relative to each other, affording great simplicity, compactness, and durability of construction.

Thirdly, my improvements consistin constructin g, arranging, and operating, relatively to each other, two independent cylindrical feeding-wheels in such a manner as that one may be independent of the'other, or both be worked together, one of said feeding-wheels being hung on an axle attached to a jointed or hinged bracket standard, so as to allow said wheel to be cast off to one side from right to left at pleasure, thereby also allowing the ready and more convenient introduction into position within the cylindrical circumference. of said feeding-wheels of an incased spool of sewingthread.

Fourthly, my improvements consist in the peculiar manner of constructing a feed tension-Wheel and operating the same by means of a detached lever-clutch or gripe device pressing or biting in an annular channel, the gripe device being actuated directly by the vibrating motion of the needle-arm, whereby the thread of the top spool is readily fed off, the required tension given, and all tension-springs, take-ups, and other auxiliary devices heretofore used are dispensed with.

Fifthly, myimprovements further consist in' the producing, by a peculiar combination of devices, three distinct kinds or forms of stitches by one machine-viz., theinterlocked or shuttle stitch, the tamhour or single-thread stitch, and a peculiar entwined loop stitch, which last kind of stitch will, however, he the subject of a separate application.

Sixthly, myimprovements furthermore consist in constructing a sewing-machine needle with the eye situated nearer the point than usual, with the additional feature ofan indented edge, or the side of each groove cut away slightly immediately opposite the eye. The object of the indentations on the edge of the grooves is to overcome any chafing of the thread and to relieve any kinking, knottiug, or inequality of the thread at the point where one thread overlies the other at the eye of the needle, in. which case the kink, knot, or inequality presses into the indentation, thereby preventing the catching of the kink, knot, or inequality against the edge of the needle-punctare in the material being sewed.

In Fig. 1 the letters a a a a mark the baseplate, which may be of any shape, and attached to any form or design of table or stand.

Letters b I) mark the standard or upright,

with the beam 0 c 0 and connecting and cross bars d d e e.

. The letters ff mark the locality where an opening is made in the base-plate, within which opening are located the two feedingwheels and the looping devices.

Letters g 1 mark the needlearm, appended to the beam 0 c by an axis or fulcrum-joint, h, and 1' marks the short arm, formed with a balllike end.

Letter J marks the slotted end, connected by the screw 7a to the needle-driver or plul'igerrod L LL.

Letters m m mark the rotating tension-feed wheel, which is formed of a circular disk of metal from two .to three inches in diameter and about three-sixteenthsof an inch thick, one edge of which is beveled off from about one-fourth of an inch from its periphery outwardly from the center, reducing the thickness of the edge about onesixteenth of an inch. On the flat surface of said wheel is formed an annular groove or channel, m m, Fig. 4, of about the eighth of an inch wide, and about one-sixteenth of an inch deep. To the beveled surface of said wheel is fastened a thin metallic disk, which 'is divided into eight or more radial segments of equal size, as shown at i 1' i Fig. 1, each alternate segment being bent down against the bevel-edge of the thicker disk, as shown, the other alternate divisions, J J J remaining upright, the thin disk thus presenting a spur-wheellike appearance, the, two circular disks thus united forming a wheel, with a channel around its circumference, nearer one side than the other, leaving intervals open on one side of its surface, as shown in Figs. 1 and 5.

Theletters a a mark the thread-feeding or lever-clutch device, which is in the form of a s nall bent lever with a notch formed on one "end, as shown at 7L3, Fig. 6.

Letter 0 marks a short lateral pin or spurlike projection on the sideof the needle-arm. 0n the top of this pin rests the end of the clutch device.

Letter 19 marks a small pendent lever-cam, which is designed tov adjust the movement more or less up and down of the clutch device.

Letter q marks the top spool-spindle; letter a", the cloth presser or pad letter 3, the lifting device thereof; letters t t, the stop-wire attached to the beam 0 c letter a, the spring attached to the cloth-presser.

' Letters a a mark a horizontal axle passing through thejournal-box N, which is formed on the under side of the base-plate a a, this horizontal axle being secured to the small balancewheel 0 0 and also passing through the box d forming part of the base-plate a a, and being also the upper part of the bracket 1; o, the horizontal axle a a extending sufliciently beyond the bracket 12 o so as to connect securely with a disk-plate, 6 to which is attached the hooked looping device f f formed with the barbed end and the heel g This looping device isattached to the disk-plate e by the axial screw b Letters 2' 1' mark a vertical cross-beam, to the upper end of which is attached a peculiarly-shaped stationary spool-holding device, formed of two pieces of metal, K? L semicylindrical or concave, the inside piece being formed with a longitudinal flange o'r lip-like continuation, L Fig. 1, with a vertical groove or channel for the passage up and down of the needle, as indicated by L L, Fig. 16. The forward upper end is rounded off and made tapering or oval, as shown.

The outer concave or jaw is formed with a slight flange, L, supplemental Diagrams 17, 18, and 19, the right-hand end thereof being more or less inclined or sloped down, forming a greater or less shoulder or angle, L at the point ofjnnction of the flange L and the concave part L as shown in supplemental Diagrams 18 and 19. The object of this shoulder or angle is to arrest one side of the loop of thread as it is drawn forward by the loopinghook, the purpose of which will be more fully described hereinafter.

The said two concave pieces of metal are connected together by a connecting-yoke or small wire, f at their butt-ends, their upper edges being about an eighth of an inch apart, having a jaw-like appearance, the lower edges of the concaves being separated about onefourth of an inch, and leaving both ends open, and thus forming a receptacle or spool and case holder, which is secured by one of its halves onto the stationary vertical cross-beam 2' 6 by the screw m Figs. 2 and 3. This spool-holding device is provided with a small hinged or pivoted guard or latch, 11, attached to the back part, K of the fixed half, as shown in Figs. 2, 3, and 16, and is constructed of a piece of metal having one end bent over, forming a lip or short flange, with a small wire lift, of, Figs. 2 and 3. This guard or latch is designed to hold the spool-case with the spools in their properposition within the spool-holder, as seen in Figs. 1 and 2.

The spool-caseholder is formed with longitudinal slot and detachable shield, employed to form the single thread or tambour stitch, as

will be explained more fully hereinafter.

The hooked looping device f is attached to a sliding pin, 0 Fig. 1, working in an elongated slot, J formed in the lower end of the cross-beam or a supporting-piece, t which is attached securely to a stationary cylindrical sleeve, 19 as shown in section inFig. 1, said sleeve being inserted horizontally into, or affixed by a flange or rim onto, the front side of a stationary bracket, 41 o (1 Through said sleeve the horizontal axle a a passes, working and revolving smoothly therein, and over said sleeve is fitted, to revolve smoothly, the hub g g of the independent feed-wheel 1' 4, which has an annular channel or groove, 8 of suit able size, formed on the disk part of the wheel, as shown in Fig. 2. This feed-wheel also has form ed around its periphery, toward one edge, a serrated or roughened rim, t Fig. 1, of more or less width across, as desired.

Letters 12 n mark another similarly-constructed feed-wheel, the hub of which revolves over a spindle, w' Fi 1, projecting from the iointed elbow to 20. These independent feeding-wheels, in large-size sewing-machines, may be from eight to ten inches in diameter, and from one to one and a half inches across their peripheries.

Letters m a mark a vibrating lever formed with an upper arm, g having a short bent end, z anda lower arm, a formed with an upright small guard-piece, b This vibrating lever works on an axis or fulcrum-screw, 0 inserted into the stationary bracket 01 o.

Letters (1 d mark the two small laterally arranged independent detachable clutches, formed with nicks or notches e c on one end. These notches fit or rest within the annular channels or grooves s s of the feeding-wheels. The said clutches have anindentation or depression across them, in which rest and press the ends of a yokewire, f f bent in its middle, over which bend hooks or grasps the end of a confining-spring, g 9 the end of which is inserted into or fastened securely onto the sta tionary bracket o c. The design of the small clutches is to rotate at required intervals the feeding-wheels, the operation of which will be more fully described hereinafter.

Figs. 7 and 8 represent my peculiar spoolcase, formed of a hollow cylinder with open butt-end and with a closed cone-shaped or pointed end, as shown, and having a small eye or perforation in its cylindrical part, about midway thereof. Around this case is fitted a wire fillet, conforming to the longitudinal shape, with a slight angular bend. This fillet is soldered to a small metal disk, forming a cap of the diameter of the open butt-end of the case. The spool of thread is to be inelosed within this case, the wire fillet being put around the case, the end of the thread being passed through the small eye or hole, and, when desired, wound once or more around the angular rise or bend of the fillet, as shown in Fig. 7, and thus giving more or less tension to the thread issuing from the spool and case.

The operation of my improvements is as follows, viz: The material to be sewed is placed over and across the feeding-wheels, and falls or rests over and around the periphery. The feedingwheels revolving over and from the operator, carry the material forward under the needle. The upper thread, descending with the needle, passes through the material, the point of the needle entering within the vertical groove L, Fig. 16, when the looping-hook f g 9 moves forward, the barbed end entering the loop of the needle-thread, the loop being carried outward toward the end of the spoolcase, and passes down under the rounded end of the spool-holder, when the loop is drawn over and around the case and in and between the concave jaws, the loop then being drawn behind the butt-end of the spool-case, and then, as the hook ascends again, the small connect 'ing or yoke wire f of the spool-holder forces or causes the loop of thread to slip off or be released from the hook, when the loop is immediately drawn up tight, interlocking the loop of the upper spool with the thread of the under spool.

The movementor circuit that is described by the barbed end of the looping-hook is identical with that shown in the peculiar form Fig. 11, which has two sections of its orbit E E approaching the 'form of part of an ellipse, the other two sections describing diagonal lines It It. Thus the movement shown approaches the shape of a rhombus.

In order to produce the required tension of the upper thread, it is carried from the spool in front over the tension-wheel m m, and down under and over it, (once or more times, if necessary,) and passed through the eye of the wire J to the side of the needle-arm; then down through the eye of the needle. The thread of the top spool, resting in the groove of the ten sion feedwheel, bears or rests alternately in its movement against the sides of the segments, thus alternately receiving pressure from the segments t J".

To produce an easy smooth tension of the upper thread, I employ a small elastic washer between the faceof the wheel m m and the beam 0 0, which affords sufficient friction or adhesive action to allow the wheel to rotate as desired. This tension may be properly termed a yielding or compensating tension; for, because of its elastic tension, it is not necessary to change the degree of tightness of the screw m when the speed of the machine is.

varied or when different sizes of thread are used-that is to say, one degree of tightness of the screw of will answer for almost an indefinite use.

In the operation of the machine, as the needle-arm g g g moves up and down the small pin or spur on the ofl side of the arm (as indicated by the dots at 0, Fig. 1) strikes up against the thread -feeding clutch-lever n, which is caused to lift up, when its nicked end 79, Fig. 6, catches or bites against the inside of the annular groove or W, Fig. 4, causing the tension feed-wheel m m to be lifted or turned over at intervals, affording a kind of intermittent motion; and thus, as the loop of the upper thread is required to be formed, a sufficient length of thread is fed off at the desired intervals of time.

It will be perceived that the cloth-feeding cylinders or wheels 1" r '0 o are arranged to extend about one-third of their diameter above the surface of the table or base-plate forming an elevated cylindrical supporting surface, whereby the material to be sewed falls over onto the face or periphery of the wheels on each side of the needle, and consequently a much greater length of the serrated feedingsurface can be used, more or less, when desired. By this extended feeding-surface the material is more regularly guided forward in a right line, and when short curves or abrupt turns, right or left, are required the operator can bring about the desired result by merely lifting or relieving the material from the serrated surfaces. By this elevated arrangement of the independent feed-wheels r 11 they perform, to a very great extent, the double office of feeding and guiding at the same time when long continuous seams are sewed.

The device for graduating the stitch is not shown in the accompanying drawings. It consists, however, of a small cam or eccentric lever formed with an adjusting-slot. It is attached horizontally to the under side of the table or stand of the machine, and is so situated as to come in contact with the lever-arm 1 and actuated by the rotatingcam 2 Fig. l. by which arrangement the arm 3 is made to move a longer or shorter distance, and thus the small clutches al o make a longer or shorter movement for moving the feeding-wheels r a",

thereby producing a longer or shorter stitch, as required.

In the several sewing-machines heretofore employed, to use a commercial or an ordinary spool of sewing-thread-without rewinding, it has been found essential to have recourse to numerous combined auxiliary devices to form and spread the loop of the upper thread, as well as to insure the taking up of the slack thread, all ofwhich additional parts tend to produce more or less complication of mechanism and uncertainty of operation; but in my improvements all such auxiliary contrivances are dispensed with, forthe looping-hook of my sew- -ing-machineis formed of but one single individual piece of metal, withoutjoint or folding part, and is unaided by springs, clip, clutch, finger, or'any secondary part, and by its peculiar shape the loop of the descending thread is caught between the cloth end of the needlethread and the needle, and is caused, by the hook, to pass around and over the inclosed spool contained in the case within the concave pieces, passing backward toward and behind the butt-end of the case, and in its rising upwardly over the case-holder the loop bears against the under side of the small yoke-connecting wire f f, and is thereby pushed off and released from the hook, the loop being instantly drawn up and tight around the thread of the incased spool, the said thread issuing'from the small hole in the upper circumference of the case.

In addition to the peculiar construction and arrangement of the parts of my improvements, I have attained great simplicity and durability of mechanism, with direct positive action of each device, without requiring any intermediate devices.

It is well known that in several sewing-machines devices have been used termed looping-hooks, which were either straight rods with barbed ends, or circular in shape, or made of two or more pieces, forming jointed or double crank-arms, arranged soas to open out and close up or expand and contract their lengths by elbow-like attachments, the movement of such devices and combinations being termedhelliptic or else circular. Such devices and combinations do not pertain in the least to my improvements, the action of each individual piece or part, as shown, and'as hereinbefore stated, being positive in itself for its particular office; for, by my improvements, without substituting one device for another, I can produpe the shuttle-stitch, the tambour-stitch, and the peculiar entwined or spiral-thread stitch, all three of which are de-. lineated in the diagrams or Figs. 13, 14, and 15.

Although the manner or mode of making the shuttle and tambour stitches is generally well-known, it may be proper, nevertheless, to describe how they are produced by my improvements, as well, also, as to explain as clearly as possible how the peculiar or third kind of stitch is formed.

To form the shuttle or look stitch the little shield M, Fig. 16, is placed in position, as shown, so as to be held firmly by sliding it into the slot n Fig. 16, the function of this shield bein g to bear off the n eedle-th read so that the needle may not enter its loop. The needle descends through the cloth when the hook f 2 g g advances forward, the barbed point en tering the bulge or partially-formed loop coming from the needle, and as the said hook moves forward over and downward, increasing the size of the loop, as in supplemental Fig. 18, it passes within or between the jawsof the concaves L L (not outside,) and then encircles around the spool-case containing the under spool, moving under and backwardly and behind the butt-end of the case, as at f supplemental Fig. 19, when at the proper time the loop bears upwardly against the small connecting yoke or Wire f and is thereby immediately released or pressed off the barb of the hook, the hook continuing to rise upwardly,

moving forward to enter the next loop, and

as the needle draws up or recedes the loop is also drawn up behind the butt-end of the spoolcase, whereby the loop incloses completely around the under thread, forming an interlocked or the shuttle stitch.

It must be particularly observed that the Ioop of the needle-thread does not pass out side and around the spool-case holder L L because it cannot pass by the vertical crosspiece '6 nor the connecting yoke or wire f f Figs. 2 and 3.

To form the sin gle-thread or tambour stitch, the under thread is not used, though thespoolcase may be retained in position, but the little shield n is detached. In the descent of the needle through the material, the loop being formed partly, the hook f g g enters the bulge thereof, and carries the loop forward down and around the spool-case, and in doing so the outer portion of the loop lodges outside of, and thus is arrested by the shoulder or angle L Figs. 18 and 19, and is held thereby as the loop is being carried back toward the connecting yoke or wire f. The loop is held sufficiently long to allow the needle to descend and enter the loop, so that when the hook passes forward to enter the loop, as in supplemental Diagram 19, the loop is in a partial twist, and will be carried forward toward the conical end of the spool-holder, laying the loop in an opposite direction from that o't'the ordinary tambour-loop. This is what gives my entwined stitch its peculiar appearance. The yoke-wire f serves to hold back the loop to permit the loop, as it rises over the rear end of the spool-case, to escape from the hook.

To form my entwined stitch the under thread is brought into requisition. As the needle descends the hook f g 9 passes upwardly and enters the small bulge of thread, as in supplemental Fig. 17, and passing toward the conical end of the spool-case, pulls out the thread from the needle, thereby extending and enlarging the loop, as in supplemental Fig. 18, and carrying it down around the spool and case, passes backward and to the rear of the spool-case, between the two jaws or concaves K L as in supplemental Fig. 19, where the loop is released or slipped ofi the hook by-bearing against the yoke-wire f, the needle in the meantime again descendin g and passing through the material, and at the same time the hook is passing forward to enterthe next succeeding loop from the nee- (11c; after which the needle recedes or is withdrawn from the material, the hook in the meantime extending the loop, as in supplemental Diagram 19, by which means the preceding loop is released or slipped off the shoulder or bulge L formed on the end of the flange K supplemental Fig. 19. In this way is each succeeding entwined stitch formed, the thread of the under spool being thereby twisted once entirely around one side of each loop, be cause it passes within the needle-loop, under and over one side, into, over, and entirely around the next loop, as in Fig. 15, the yellow thread being the entwined one; and it will be perceived that the thread of the under spool and one loop of the upper thread are both interlocked with another loop of the upper thread, as at f f supplemental Figs. 18 and 19. Consequently the manner of passing the under thread within and about each loop of the upper thread is in a reverse or opposite position relative to each other, and does not produce simply an interlaced chain or runningthread stitch, which last-named stitch is produced by the sewing-machine' patented February 21, 1860, by Jas. A. E. Gibbs.

In the Gibbs machine the finder thread is merely passed or run through each loop in. a right line, resting entirely in a longitudinal direction along the side of each loop,- and is, in fact, not even an interlaced thread, but merely a running thread, which only rests against the broad part of each loop, and can be most readily pulled out, thus being of little or no practical use, because it does not pass within one loop and entwine entirely around one side thereof; whereas the under thread in my sewing-machine is passed within one loop, rests over and on the outside of the narrow part of each loop, then passes in beneath and against the under side of the broad part of the same loop, and in like manner with regard to each succeeding loop, and is thereby completely entwined, and also interlocked within two loops at the same time, confining the narrow part of one loop down onto the broad part of another loop, as in Fig. 15.

Having explained in full the nature, construction, operation, and the peculiar features distinguishing my improvements from all other sewing-machines, and disclaiming the invention of the shuttle or interlocked stitch, the tambour or single-thread loop-stitch, and the interlaced chain-stitch, what I do claim as new, and desire to have secured by Letters Patent of the United States, is as follows, viz: 1. The construction of a looping-hookformed of one individual piece of metal of the shape shown at f g g, and so connecting said hook in such a manner directly onto the extremity of a rotating axle as to dispense with all secondary joint-rods, elbows, or crank-arms, and so, also, that while its pivoted end 0 moves within a slot J up and down with a recipromoves in and describes parts of an ellipse, E

E, and also diagonal lines R R, as shown in Fig. 11, the action of said loopinghook being received direct from the end of a primary axle, the motions of both being around one common center, as shown and described.

2. The manner or mode of constructing, combining, and arranging the clothfeeding wheel 0 r r 1, so that the hub or center q thereof revolves over and around a stationary sleeve, 19 within which sleeve rotates the drivingaxle a (0 Fig. l, and through which construction the action of a primary driving-wheel is communicated direct to said feedingwheel, and by which combination and arrangement the looping-hook f g 9 receives direct motion, and whereby great simplicity, compactness, and durability of construction are attained, substantially as and for the purposes set forth and described.

3. The manner or mode of hanging or attachi'ng the cloth-feeding wheel 11 o onto a jointed, hinged, or pivoted standard, bracket, bearing, or an axle, w 20, so that said feedingwheel may be cast off or turned outwardly to one side, out of position or from beneath the material, in the manner as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 1, as and for the purposes set forth and described.

4. The construction and arrangement of the laterallyworking detached clutch devices (1 d e 0 with the yoke-wires f f g g, and the vibrating lever 00 0& y y as set forth, and for the purpose specified.

5. The peculiar construction and arrange ment of the thread-tension wheel on m i J, and the detachable lifting and intermittentlyacting lever-clutch n n h Figs. 1 and 2, or its equivalent, for the purpose substantially as set forth and described.

6. The peculiar construction of the stationary spool-case holder K K L L Figs. 2, 3, and 16, formed of two concave jaw-like pieces provided with (or without) the slot it, together with the latch or spool-case guard a n Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 16, or its equivalent, as set forth anddescribed, and for the purpose specified.

7. The detachable shield 01 ,01 its equivalent, in combination with the spool-case holder, for the purpose as set forth and described.

8. The construction of theinclosed spool-case, or its equivalent, Figs. 7, 8, and 9, together with the encompassing wire fillet, formed as shown in Figs. 7 and 10, for the purpose substantially as set forth and described.

9. Constructing a sewing-machine needle with short abrupt grooves, one edge of one (or both) of the grooves being indented or cut away immediately at the side of the eye, as shown at '5 Fig. 12, and by which form of construction any kink, knot, or inequality of thread is prevented from chafing, catching, or clogging between the needle and edge of the needle puncture at the position where one thread overlies the other close to the eye of the needle, as herein described, as and for the purpose specified.

GEORGE L. DULANEY.

WVitnesses M. FRIEsE, J r., J. O. MILLER. 

